The first contrast of Albania hit me before I even got out of the car. In a humble neighborhood, with half-finished construction and cables hanging everywhere, there were three Mercedes parked in a row. That's a good summary of Shkodër, and Albania in general: a country that carried 50 years of communism and is now trying to get back on its feet, with whatever resources it has and whatever emigrants send back home.
Shkodër is the first Albanian city we visited. It borders Montenegro, sits in the north of the country, and was our gateway to a destination that surprised us from the very first moment.
What to know about Albania before you arrive: the weight of communism
Albania lived under extreme communism from 1944 to 1991, under Enver Hoxha's regime. This wasn't just any communism — the country was completely shut off from the world. It broke relations with China, with the former Yugoslavia, and with practically everyone. It was declared the world's first atheist state.
One of Hoxha's obsessions was invasion. That's why he built around 170,000 bunkers across the entire territory — roughly one per 17 people. Today you see them everywhere: in fields, along the coast, in cities. They were never used for their intended purpose, but they remain as the most visible mark of that paranoid regime.
When communism fell in 1991, what followed wasn't gentle. In the 1990s, 90% of Albanians lost all their savings in a massive pyramid scheme that collapsed the country's financial system. It was one of the most devastating economic blows in the region.
Today Albania has 2.7 million inhabitants, many of whom emigrated to Italy, Greece, and other European countries. That emigration has a curious side effect: those who left send remittances, and part of that money translates into... Mercedes. Yes, Albania is probably the country with the highest Mercedes per capita you'll ever see. It's not just that — there are other factors — but the contrast makes immediate sense: a humble neighborhood, luxury cars on the street.
Shkodër: what to see in northern Albania
Shkodër isn't Tirana, and that's exactly what makes it interesting. It's quieter, more local, and gives you a genuine first look at how people actually live in Albania before you reach the capital.
Rozafa Castle
The highlight of Shkodër is Rozafa Castle, a fortress that rises on a hill between the Buna and Drin rivers. It's one of the most strategically important points in the region — Romans, Venetians, and Ottomans all passed through here.
Climbing up to the castle is like stepping into a different era. From the top you get views of Lake Shkodër, the mountains, the river confluence, and the city below looking suddenly small. The path is a bit steep in summer heat, but every step is worth it. Entry is cheap; the views are memorable.
The city center and its permanent contrasts
What hits you most walking through Shkodër is the constant contradiction. Zones under active construction sit next to crumbling buildings. There's a center with genuinely good restaurants — and in the middle of it all, a brand-new Mercedes parked in front of an appliance store that looks straight out of the '90s.
The people are warm. Very warm. When we stopped to charge the Tesla at a petrol station, a man walked over to help because the charging app wasn't working. We hadn't asked for anything. That happened more than once in Albania: people approaching to explain things, attending you well when you go out to eat, being genuinely kind without any particular reason.
Things that will surprise you in Albania
A few things the travel guides won't tell you but that you'll notice day to day:
Card payments aren't universal. Many bars and restaurants still only accept cash. Carry Albanian lek (the local currency) — don't rely on plastic alone.
The security will catch you off guard. The apartment we rented in Shkodër didn't even have a locked door at the building entrance. Anyone could walk up the stairs. I asked the owner whether the car was safe on the street. He said "nothing will happen." Nothing happened.
The country is visibly under construction. Albania is growing, pushing to join the European Union, investing in infrastructure. Cranes and scaffolding everywhere, new buildings going up. This is a country literally rebuilding itself in real time.
The night in Shkodër
Shkodër's nightlife is one of the best arguments for staying more than a day. There's a genuinely pleasant atmosphere around the center: terrace bars, good food, plenty of young people out. And it feels safe — we had no uncomfortable moment walking around at night.
What also caught my attention was the religious mix. Albania has both a Muslim tradition (from Ottoman influence) and a Christian one, and they coexist with a normality that doesn't always happen elsewhere. In Shkodër you see that mix in the buildings, in the business names, in the people themselves.
Is Albania worth visiting?
Absolutely yes. Albania is becoming known for its southern beaches, its low prices, its presence on the European travel radar. But what we took away from Shkodër wasn't any of those arguments — it was the feeling of a country that's genuine, not yet packaged for mass tourism, where people treat you well because that's simply how they are.
The communist history, the bunkers, the contrasts between poverty and wealth, Rozafa Castle with its view over the lake and the rivers, the calm but alive nightlife... Albania is going to become a much more visited destination. We got there before it got crowded. That has something special to it too.
If you're traveling through northern Albania, the natural next stop is the capital: What to See in Tirana: Enver Hoxha and Albania's Communist History →
Frequently asked questions about Albania
Do I need a visa for Albania?
Citizens of EU countries, the US, UK, and many other nationalities can enter Albania without a visa for stays of up to 90 days. Always check the current rules for your specific passport before traveling.
What currency is used in Albania?
The Albanian lek (ALL). Euros are accepted in some tourist spots but not everywhere. It's worth carrying local cash, especially for smaller restaurants and markets.
Is Albania safe to travel?
Yes. Albania is one of the safest countries we visited on this trip. People are friendly and petty crime against tourists is very low. The negative reputation is decades old and doesn't reflect today's reality.
How many days do I need in Shkodër?
One to two days is enough to see Rozafa Castle, walk the center, and enjoy the food scene. If you want to add the surroundings — Lake Shkodër, nearby villages — add another day.
Are there Tesla chargers in Albania?
We found charging points in Shkodër, but no Tesla Superchargers. If you're driving in from Montenegro, charge to full before crossing. Check PlugShare for the available points along your route.
